A Storied Legacy
Golf at Royal Dornoch dates back to at least 1616, making it one of the oldest known golfing sites in the world. However, it wasn’t until 1877 that the Royal Dornoch Golf Club was officially founded. The course as we know it today owes much to the legendary Old Tom Morris, who in 1886 was commissioned to design an 18-hole layout. His vision for this natural linksland took less than 30 years to earn the club royal patronage, granted in 1906 by the Duchess of Sutherland.
Dornoch’s Most Famous Son
Few names in golf course architecture are as revered as Donald Ross, and Royal Dornoch is where he first honed his craft. Born in the town, Ross served as the club’s first golf professional before departing for the United States in 1899. Over his illustrious career, he designed more than 400 courses, including Pinehurst No. 2, Seminole, Oak Hill, and Oakland Hills—courses that still challenge the best players in the world today.
A Perfect Day for Golf
Much has been written about Royal Dornoch, and I was eager to experience it. I was fortunate to play on a near-perfect day, with bright sunshine and just a light breeze off the North Sea. While I relished the conditions, I could only imagine the brutal challenge this course presents when the wind howls.
Unlike some visiting golfers, I prefer to experience a course as it unfolds, rather than studying hole-by-hole flyovers beforehand. This approach brings the element of adventure—though it occasionally leads to an unintended detour to the wrong tee! Thankfully, Royal Dornoch’s routing is intuitive, as I was about to discover.
The Legendary Links
Royal Dornoch has five sets of tees to choose from with yardages ranging from 5296 yards to 6799 yards and has a par of 70. I chose to play from the white tees at 6649 yards but only because there was little wind. If your handicap is higher than single figures then you should consider playing from the yellow tees which are still just short of 6300 yards. As always, choose the tees to suit your game and handicap.
Standing on the first tee, I felt a mix of nervous excitement. The first challenge, however, wasn’t the hole itself—it was the surprising number of cars, camper vans, and pedestrians crossing the road in front of me, oblivious to the impending flurry of golf balls. When I finally teed off, it was a somewhat rushed swipe, but we were on our way.
The Front Nine: A True Links Challenge
The 2nd Hole
The 2nd hole is a stunning par 3 at 177 yards, The green is like an upturned bowl, any shot left or right will roll off leaving a difficult chip and putt for par. Thankfully, the hole was playing down breeze and a well-struck 6-iron to eight feet settled my nerves, though I frustratingly left my birdie putt short.
Approach to the 4th green
The 4th is a lovely par 4 of 422 yards which plays slightly longer as the green sits above the fairway. It takes two good shots to reach this putting green. Avoid the bunkers at all costs. I managed to stay on the back edge of the green with my 6-iron approach and two-putt for par. If I had hit a 7-iron, it would have come up short.
Short But Tricky
The 5th hole
As the course unfolded, the true majesty of Royal Dornoch became clear. The 5th hole, a short par 4, was my undoing. A solid 3-wood left me just 65 yards to the pin, but a poorly struck wedge, followed by another mistake and three putts, led to a double bogey. It was a stark reminder that there is no margin for error on these links.
What a View
From the 7th tee, the landscape fully reveals itself, offering breathtaking views of the links, the coastline, the beach and the Moray Firth. The 7th hole, a 480-yard par 4, is a classic test. With a good drive and an even better hybrid approach, I walked off with a well-earned par. I finished the front nine with two more pars, making the turn at 3-over 38—delighted, except for that painful double on the 5th.
The Back Nine: A Test of Skill and Nerve
The 146-yard 10th hole
The 10th hole gifted me my only birdie of the day—a well-struck 8-iron to 20 feet, followed by a confident putt. Three solid pars followed, and for a brief moment, I entertained thoughts of the best round of my trip. Reality struck on the 14th, aptly named ‘Foxy’. It’s a long par 4 at 445 yards and it’s the hardest hole on the course. A fairway-splitting tee shot was undone by a pulled approach, a poor pitch, and a two-putt bogey.
The 17th hole
The penultimate hole is another lovely par 4 of 405 yards. It doesn’t play that yardage as the tee is elevated and you play downhill to the fairway. Make sure your tee shot finds the short stuff and not the rough. Do that and you will have a short iron into the green.
Final Thoughts: Why I’m an Idiot…
It took me far too long to visit Royal Dornoch, despite living in Scotland. This course is on every golfer’s bucket list for good reason. Consistently ranked among the world’s top 10, it is a masterpiece of links golf, blending Old Tom Morris’ vision with a natural landscape that provides both beauty and challenge.
With firm, fast fairways and elevated greens that require precise approach shots, Royal Dornoch demands accuracy, creativity, and a deft touch around the greens. It is a course that rewards strategy, punishes carelessness, and leaves an indelible mark on those fortunate enough to play it.
To General Manager Neil Hampton and the Royal Dornoch team—thank you for your warm hospitality.
Where to Stay: Dornoch Castle Hotel
Dornoch Castle Hotel
Located just 500 yards from the first tee, Dornoch Castle Hotel offers a historic and charming place to stay. Dating back to the 15th century, the castle is full of character, with sloping floors, ancient stone walls, and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
The bedroom
Our room featured a four-poster bed, adding to the regal experience. While the quirks of a 600-year-old building were evident, they only enhanced the charm. The bed was really comfortable and we had a great night’s sleep
Dining & Drinks
The garden
The hotel’s garden patio was the perfect spot to unwind after golf, with patrons enjoying fine food, drinks, and the rare Scottish sunshine. The bar is well-stocked with local whiskies, gins, and craft beers—our server recommended a black-pepper-infused gin for my wife and a local IPA for me. Both were outstanding.
For those seeking a unique, historic stay in Dornoch, the Dornoch Castle Hotel is highly recommended.
At a Glance: Why Royal Dornoch is a Must-Play
- World-class links golf
- Two courses available – the Championship Course and the Struie
- Lovely clubhouse with stunning views
- Well-stocked pro shop
- Located 60 minutes north of Inverness (3h 45m drive from Glasgow/Edinburgh)
- Fantastic links courses within an hour’s drive – Tain, Brora, Fortrose & Rosemarkie, Nairn, Nairn Dunbar, and Castle Stuart
- Visit the Royal Dornoch website here
- Visit the Dornoch Castle website here
For those who love golf, history, and unforgettable scenery, Royal Dornoch is an experience like no other. If it’s not already on your bucket list, it should be.
Jim Callaghan CCM is a former Club Manager with experience overseeing several top Scottish clubs.
Now, as European Editor of Golf Operator Magazine and World’s Best Golf Destinations, he shares insights into club operations and his golfing adventures across Europe.
If you would like to reach over 400,000 golfers who love to travel, contact Jim at [email protected] or call 0044 (0) 78522 88732.
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