Golfers know that feeling. The moment you arrive at a truly special golf destination, anticipation builds, and the weight of history settles in. It’s the same sensation you get at Pebble Beach, Bandon Dunes, Old Head, or the hallowed grounds of St. Andrews. Goosebumps rise, nerves tingle, and, for some, an emotional tear might even slip down the cheek.
It’s not just about the game—it’s about standing where legends have walked, where nature and golf intertwine seamlessly. You have the silent hope that today, just maybe, your game will be good enough to match the grandeur of the setting.
That’s exactly the feeling you get when you arrive at The Machrie, a hidden gem on the wild and rugged Hebridean island of Islay, Scotland. While it may not yet have the global renown of some of the game’s most iconic venues. Those who venture here soon realize they are experiencing something truly extraordinary.
A Journey Worth Taking
Reaching The Machrie is part of the adventure. While a 25-minute flight from Glasgow is the quickest option, the real magic begins with the road trip from Glasgow to the ferry terminal at Kennacraig.
The scenic drive weaves through some of Scotland’s most breathtaking landscapes. You drive past the shimmering waters of Loch Lomond and Loch Long, over the dramatic mountain pass of Rest and Be Thankful, Then through the charming town of Inveraray, with its fairytale-like castle and historic jail. The scenery will give you goosebumps. Continuing south, the route hugs the coastline, offering glimpses of the islands beyond before arriving at Kennacraig, where the ferry to Islay departs.
Once aboard, the ferry glides past West Tarbert Loch and the Isle of Gigha, before entering the vast Atlantic. Standing on the viewing deck, watching Islay’s rugged shores approach, is a moment to savour.
A Course Born from Golfing Heritage
The Machrie’s story begins in 1891. Willie Campbell, a noted Scottish professional and course designer, was invited to lay out a course on the untouched dunes overlooking Laggan Bay. A contender in multiple Open Championships, Campbell’s design philosophy was rooted in natural golf. After just two days on site, he declared: “This place was made for gowf.”
The Machrie’s reputation grew rapidly, attracting some of the greatest players of the early 20th century. In 1901, the legendary Great Triumvirate—Harry Vardon, J.H. Taylor, and James Braid, who collectively won 16 Open Championships—competed in a high-stakes challenge match here, with a record-breaking purse of £100.
However, the course’s original layout, characterized by numerous blind shots and deep dunes, proved too punishing for the modern game. Over the decades, modifications were made, culminating in a full redesign by D.J. Russell from 2013 to 2018, transforming The Machrie into a links course that is world-class while preserving its untamed character. Today, The Machrie offers an unforgettable experience, blending traditional links features with modern playability.
Opening Holes: A Test of Strategy and Skill
The Machrie Links has four sets of tees to choose from with yardages ranging from 5104 yards to the championship tees at 6782 yards. As always, choose the tees to suit your game. We chose to play from the blue tees at 6309 yards.
Hole 1
Standing on the first tee, a 405-yard par 4, golfers are met with a classic links conundrum—an expansive fairway, yet an invisible landing area. For your tee shot, the ideal line is down the right, setting up a favourable angle for the approach. On the second hole, a risk-reward par 5, of 506 yards, don’t flirt with a burn that snakes down the left, while the third, a demanding 174-yard par 3, which plays uphill, is at the mercy of the ever-changing coastal winds.
Mid-Round Drama
View from the fairway to the 5th green
The 5th hole is a standout, at 396 yards, it offers a blind approach to a tiered green that rewards precision. Holes 6 through 9 parallel the beach, culminating in the 9th, a breathtaking short par 3 of 138 yards, with the Atlantic as a backdrop.
Hole 9
The Back Nine
Turning for home, the 10th is a stout 426-yard par 4 with the Machrie Burn in play. The 11th, at 252 yards, tempts long hitters with a drivable green, while the 14th, a stunning par 3 of 151 yards, demands accuracy to avoid the surrounding heather.
It’s the stunning 14th hole
The 17th is a true throwback to the course’s original design—an old-school dogleg right of 316 yards, where the green remains hidden until the very last moment. Your round finishes with a classic risk-reward par 5, offering one final opportunity for heroics before returning to the warmth of The Machrie Hotel.
The dogleg 17th hole
More Than Just a Course
The Machrie isn’t just about championship golf. The Wee Course, a 6-hole par 3 layout, is perfect for relaxed evening rounds, with hole configurations changing daily. The practice facilities, including a covered driving range and short-game area, ensure golfers can fine-tune their skills before tackling the links.
Luxury Meets Tradition: The Machrie Hotel
After a day on the links, the Machrie Hotel provides the ultimate retreat. Reopened in 2018 after a stunning renovation, the hotel offers 47 elegantly designed rooms, suites, and lodges, some with private terraces overlooking the course.
18 Restaurant and Bar
The 18 Restaurant & Bar is a highlight, serving dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients, including the island’s renowned seafood. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer breathtaking views of the links and the ocean beyond. The view and ambience make it the perfect spot to relive the day’s round over a dram of Islay’s finest whisky.
Our Favourite Spot
Relaxing in the lounge with a view
Sitting at the lounge window looking out over the 18th green, the course and towards the Atlantic was our favourite spot in the hotel. Especially when the sun came out. It was bliss sitting there with a pre and post-dinner drink. Make sure you try the local Machrie Gin, we highly recommend it.
Beyond Golf: Discovering Islay
While The Machrie is the island’s only golf course, Islay itself is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts and whisky & gin lovers alike. Islay is world-famous for its whisky, home to nine distilleries, each with its own distinct character. From the peaty intensity of Laphroaig to the refined smoothness of Bruichladdich, whisky lovers will find no shortage of tasting opportunities. If gin is more your style, the island boasts three gin distilleries, crafting artisanal spirits infused with local botanicals.
Beaches, Wildlife, and Adventure
The beach at the Machrie
Islay’s vast sandy beaches, such as those at Machir Bay and Saligo Bay, are perfect for long walks, often with no one else in sight. Birdwatchers will marvel at Islay’s diverse wildlife, including rare species such as golden eagles and barnacle geese. For history buffs, the ancient ruins of Finlaggan, the seat of the Lords of the Isles, provide a fascinating glimpse into Scotland’s medieval past.
Final Thoughts: A Golfing Pilgrimage Worth Taking
The Machrie is more than just a golf course—it’s an experience, an escape, and a true test of links golf in its purest form. Its history is woven into the fabric of the game, yet its modern incarnation offers something for everyone, from the scratch player to the weekend enthusiast.
With breathtaking scenery, world-class hospitality, and a journey that feels like a pilgrimage, The Machrie is one of golf’s best-kept secrets—one that every golfer should discover. Thank you to all the staff at The Machrie for making our experience exceptional. And thank you for allowing us to use some of your course photography.
At a Glance:
- Only golf course on Islay
- World-class hotel and dining on-site
- 18-hole championship course
- 6-hole short course, a covered driving range & short-game area
- A 25-minute flight or a 3-hour drive from Glasgow
- Ferries from Oban, Kennacraig, and Ballycastle in Northern Ireland (summer only)
- More details at www.themachrielinks.com
Jim Callaghan CCM is a former Club Manager with experience overseeing several top Scottish clubs.
Now, as European Editor of Golf Operator Magazine and World’s Best Golf Destinations, he shares insights into club operations and his golfing adventures across Europe.
If you would like to reach over 400,000 golfers who love to travel, contact Jim at [email protected] or call 0044 (0) 78522 88732.
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