Fairways in the Land of Pharaohs

Squeezed between the Red Sea and the Sinai Desert, Sharm el Sheik is a recreational oasis that attracts many different breeds of migrating holidaymaker from various corners of the globe. With more or less uninterrupted sunshine for approximately 365 days a year and a rich array of activities for those looking beyond the beach, it’s not difficult to appreciate why the appeal of the place is bigger than the Sphinx and the Pyramids combined.

But what does it specifically offer that most popular winter visitor, the intrepid travelling golfer?  Is there enough for him to sink a wedge into or should he forget about packing the soft spikes and settle for a pair of flippers and go snorkelling instead?

Although there’s talk of building more, Sharm el Sheikh just has the one course at the moment. But it’s a top quality facility that hosted a Challenge Tour event in 2004 and the European Seniors in 2005, so it is well used to the big occasion.

Located on the coastal plain between the imposing mountains and the deep blue sea, the Jolie Ville course is every bit as spectacular as its surroundings. Instead of simply moving earth to build mounds on either side of the fairways, as is the current fashion, here the raised areas ripple across the whole course and help create a less artificial appearance and a more natural feel. The consequently sloping fairways also require imaginative shots from a variety of lies.

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The grass is surprisingly lush and healthy.  Paspallum is a variety that must be distantly related of the camel as it thrives in conditions in which others grasses would lose the will to live. It doesn’t even mind being doused in brackish water, of which there is plenty in the numerous lakes sprinkled around the course.

This is an area not unfamiliar with miraculous goings on. Moses was handed the Ten Commandments on nearby Mount Sinai (“Thou shalt repair thy pitchmarks. Thou shalt not three putt,” etc.) and it wasn’t very far from here that the children of Israel were waved through by the Great Course Marshall in the sky. So maybe golf balls floating back to the surface of a lake should not come as a surprise.

The sixth is a par five comfortably reachable in two if you bite off the dogleg and go over the water. Such an apparently bold strategy is made considerably less daunting by the comforting thought that, even if you don’t quite make it, you won’t lose the ball which, if you wait a moment or two, will float back to the surface. The ever-present breeze will then waft it gently to the shore. Presumably, if all that takes less than five minutes, you can flick the ball off the surface rather than take a penalty drop, but I’m no rules’ expert.

For those who find the blinking lights and gyrating bellies of Sharm (as everyone calls it) a tad too exhausting after a tough round, there is a rather more sophisticated alternative just a couple of hours up the road. Because security is both very apparent and extremely tight in an area that has fallen victim to terrorist outrages in the past, you will be stopped several times as you head north. But the police are polite and the delays are minimal.

Both students of geology and fans of dramatic scenery will enjoy the drive as there is plenty to appreciate. As well as Bedouin camps and camels, which provide the only signs of life, there are steep-sided granite mountains, multi-coloured boulders of biblical proportions, craggy peaks and tumbling rock screes, all gently shimmering in the desert sun to create a beautiful if barren landscape.

Taba Heights lies just south of the border with Israel and, although it’s little more than a collection of decent hotels, it sits comfortably on the shores of the Red Sea and is evidently growing in popularity. Perhaps because it lacks some of the frenzy of Sharm and nearby Eilat, it appeals to the more discerning and, dare I say it, slightly more mature traveller.

Right next door to the hotels is the recently opened Taba Heights course. It’s a pure desert course. With verdant fairways and greens standing out in marked contrast to the sand-coloured surrounds, it wouldn’t look out of place in Arizona. The un-grassed areas are, in fact, fairly firm and picking the ball cleanly off with a club is not all that difficult. Consequently, with very few trees to worry about, the course is pretty forgiving. Predictably, the principal problem is posed by the numerous bunkers. And there’s a quartet of lakes that both add enormously to the visual appeal and drown errant shots.

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The Red Sea runs alongside and the 17th green is less than 100 yards from the beach. Jordan, Israel and Saudi Arabia are all clearly visible across the water while the imposing Sinai mountains provide a dramatic backdrop. There’s plenty of elevation, too, as the course rises from about 12 to 300 feet above sea level. Because of this and the heat, buggies are mandatory while their cost is incorporated within the green fee.

Attractive displays of big boulders that have been carefully selected and erected a few feet apart so that they resemble sculptures, punctuate the scenery and add considerably to the overall visual interest.

The Red Sea is to scuba diving and snorkelling what St Andrews is to golf. And so to visit the area solely to play golf would be rather perverse. However, the courses are certainly good enough to justify you taking your clubs and having a round or two after you’ve ‘goggled’ thousands of fabulous multi-coloured fish.

WHY WE LIKE IT

Egypt generally and Sharm el Sheikh in particular has suffered a significant drop in visitors recently because of the political unrest. Consequently, there are incredible bargains to be had and quiet fairways to be enjoyed by gutsy golfers unfazed by daunting carries and a remote threat. If you can summon up the courage, the locals will really appreciate it and look after you really well.

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